Category Archives: Africa

jailed missionaries in Haiti

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I’ve been following this story with more than a casual interest and my emotions are engaged on several levels. First and foremost, I worry about the children and the parents who felt the need to give them away in order to save them. I wept when I read the stark commentary from one of these parents a few days back. She said “This is our culture. We often give our children to others to raise, so they will have a better chance at life.” Others may give one child away to finance the feeding of the other 6. These children are called restavecs – no more than child-slaves in the household of a better-off family.

I’ve seen this in Africa. I’ve had many conversations with grown women who, though they nonchanlantly tell their stories, have obviously never emotionally recovered from being given away as children. Most of them spent their childhoods tending cows, hauling water, watching younger children, cooking, washing clothes – and so had no opportunity to go to school. And when the sun set in the village, most of them were molested.

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Then there are the cow-boys of Malawi. Little boys taken far from their homes to tend cattle as slaves in another village. This is illegal in Malawi now, but I’m told that when government officials enter a village to inspect, they simply hide the boys until they leave. The law is nearly impossible to enforce in the  villages where traditional authorities and cultural practices reign.

As I’ve read similar stories in Haiti, the frustration of the aid workers and doctors is palpable. Their hands are tied and they know it. But the 10 jailed missionaries shook off those ties.

I’ve been surprised at how emotional I’ve been about this event. I don’t even know where to start – but let me start here: I won’t impugn their motives. I understand the heart that took them to Haiti and respect their courage to wade into the carnage and try to make a difference. But even as we press against the things in the culture that victimize innocents, we must respect that nation’s laws at all times. The bible clearly states that we must respect those in authority – and any remnant of a colonial mindset that sets itself up as the law is arrogant.

As someone who has spent many long days and years in Madagascar running after some important little piece of paper – what we call “zee leetle paper” – I do understand the frustration. You need “zee leetle paper”. You go to social welfare and social welfare tells you to go to the ministry of whatever and the ministry of whatever sends you to the ministry of whatsit and 10 hours later there is still no leetle paper. But you don’t run around their laws unless you want to be their guest for a couple of decades. It’s called respect.

We tried to adopt a little boy from Madagascar some years back. For several years, we supported him in an orphanage run by a pastor and wife – who assured us he was an orphan and that they would help us gather his paperwork. We personally sent monthly funds and large sums to procure a birth certificate – but no such certificate ever materialized. To make a long story short, on a final trip when I thought I was in the last stages of the process, a mother emerged. He was not an orphan – something the pastor knew all along. The mother didn’t want her son back, however – she just wanted money.

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At that moment I had to make a decision that broke my heart. I told her to take her son back to the village. The little boy was inconsolable, as were my husband and I, but there was simply no way around this. This woman wanted to sell her son. In that split second, I knew I had to trust God with his young life. I could not violate child trafficking laws to try to save him myself. It wasn’t an easy decision but I still know it was the right one.

Which brings me to the jailed group’s leader – Laura Silsby. She is being villified in the press and now we’re told the group has turned against her, passing notes through the bars about her controlling nature and how she deceived them. I don’t know about any of that – but I can’t help but wonder why we always eat our own. Quote scripture all you want and sing Amazing Grace until you’re hoarse, but Jesus said they’ll know we are Christians by our love for each other.

On the other hand, I would call on Laura Silsby to act in love towards the team entrusted to her. Stand up and take full responsibility for your actions and ask for the immediate release of your team members. They trusted your judgment in an unfamiliar culture. They trusted your decisions and your word. These decisions – no matter how good the motive – have led them smack into this tense situation, causing fear among their loved ones. Speak up, Laura, it’s the price of leadership and also the price of love.

Photo Credits: Haitian Child by lauri koski; Cow Boy by Patsala, a young village boy in Malawi who participated in an Ancient Path photography project.

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8 minutes 24 seconds

I saw a 60 second commercial the other day featuring two well-dressed men discussing the clear reasons we should all own gold in this unstable world.  Well, here’s 8 minutes and 24 seconds  featuring the children who mine that gold in Congo. This is their unstable world.

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no more slogans, please

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I knew there would be a slogan or two floating around for the new year but couldn’t help cringing when I read the first one this morning:

Begin again in 2010.

Every year I am bombarded with prophetic predictions that this will be the year of breakthrough. This is the year that I will walk into my spiritual inheritance! Emails flood in promising unequaled blessings in what will be my best year ever. I used to believe these – I considered it lack of faith not to.

But I’ve learned alot in the last few years – for instance, the difference between faith and presumption, between hope and illusion, between joy and happiness.

I can’t be happy as my father battles cancer or as we bury my beautiful mother-in-law on the birthday of her first-born son. I can’t be happy as my daughter fights her way back to physical and emotional strength to overcome the trauma of her abandonment that has been recently triggered. I helplessly watch as her brilliant mind struggles to complete a sentence, grappling with the overwhelming fear that her world is collapsing once again, as she watches beloved grandparents fade away.

No, I can’t be happy but I can access deep joy – when my family comes together over a meal, when my granddaughter laughs, when I watch my father and mother hold hands even as the sun sets on their lives here. Or when I see the beauty of God in every creature and all of creation, when I hug the children of Africa or simply settle in front of the fire with my husband and a good book or movie.

I can’t presume that my father will be healed of his cancer – after all, I’m not God. But I can ask for it by faith  – and I can step out each day in that faith, knowing that the God of the tiny sparrows holds him in his hands and is continually preparing him for the glory of eternity through his suffering.

My illusions died a few years back, taking hope with it for a season – but I’ve got it back. And I find comfort in the simple, powerful words of Jesus: In this world you will have trouble but take heart, I have overcome the world.

I’ve also redefined blessing and breakthrough. Why is it that we always define blessing as some form of prosperity? The words of the angel to Mary tell me a different story. This highly blessed woman suddenly finds herself pregnant out of wedlock – scandalous in a culture that can cry out for her blood. Then she must deliver her miraculous child in a cave far from home and everyone she loves. Not long after, she has to flee to Egypt and live as a refugee in order to save her son’s life. Over the years, she watches as he is both deified and vilified and finally, murdered. Blessed above all women, indeed.

I’m careful when I ask for the blessings of God.

As for breakthrough, I’ve been waiting for the intangible “it” for years, but I now realize that each day I live I am breaking through – breaking through the wall of ignorance, of selfishness, of arrogance and pride. In suffering and service, I am breaking through to a new place of seeing and understanding both the words and the way of Jesus.

I have no idea what 2010 holds, but in this season of life we have three parents who are ill – so there is more loss ahead. A catchy slogan and a few groundless promises aren’t going to carry me through this.

But faith, hope and joy will.

And love…always, love.

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Thoko’s Story

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Today, on World AIDS Day, I want to tell the story of a beautiful Zulu friend lost to the disease some years back.

Her story is a familiar one in Africa. A young girl falls in love with a young man and they marry. They work to build a life together, attend church together, and one day they celebrate the great news that a child is on the way.

But something goes wrong and the baby doesn’t live long after birth. Through the fog of shock and pain, Thoko vaguely remembers a doctor yelling angrily at her husband in the hallway – something about the reason the baby died and telling his wife. Her husband stays silent, however, and Thoko knows nothing except that she is going home with empty arms.

Six months later, her distraught husband commits suicide. Thoko’s in-laws approach her with their suspicions: they think their son may have been HIV+ – and, guilt-ridden over the death of their innocent baby, he killed himself. They recommend that Thoko gets tested and when she does, the result is positive. She has lost her baby, her husband now she has HIV.

In the year 2000, when I first meet Thoko in South Africa, she is already fighting the ravaging effects of full-blown AIDS.  With no ARV treatments and  little medical treatment of any kind at that time, the disease progresses quickly. Thoko tells me about the humiliation of being refused treatment for tuberculosis when the doctor sees HIV+ on her chart – and being sent home with nothing more than a handful of Panadol ( the equivalent of our acetaminophen). She talks about the stigma attached to HIV – the fear of being found out, of being tossed out of the family and the community, of being left to fight the disease alone.

And then there’s the deep shame – the inevitable shame that attaches itself to the HIV virus. But by the time I meet her, Thoko has come to a place of deep peace and manages to radiate joy.

God has brought a special woman into her life – a registered nurse with a ministry to women with HIV. She takes her in under her loving wing, as do others in the Christian community and soon Thoko finds her own unique voice and begins to speak out. She travels with her new friend to the villages, urging women to get tested, educating them about the disease, how it is spread and even more importantly, how it isn’t. She breaks the silence, speaking the unspeakable and giving others the courage to do the same. Attacking the fear and the stigma, Thoko continues her village travels until she is too weak to go on.

I spent much of 2000 traveling back and forth to South Africa producing/directing a stage musical with a blended South African/USA cast & crew. Through that year, I watch Thoko grow weaker and weaker. I bring her a warm, purple plush blanket from the US, which she loves. But even when she wraps her thin, brittle frame in the heavy covering from head to toe, she still shakes violently from chills.

The night she comes to the theater to talk to the Cries cast during rehearsal, she is wrapped in her blanket and so wracked with pain in her legs she he can barely stand. But stand she does – and once again she speaks out, changing minds and hearts with her courage and joy. She also opens the prison door for a few people who, with tears streaming down their faces, now feel the freedom to voice their own fears – and to say their own words, “I’m HIV+”

Thoko once gave me a gift that is a now a treasured possession – a simple pin displaying the AIDS symbol, done up in red beads on a silver beaded background. She tells me that she makes these pins for a little income – always in red on a white background. But she buys silver beads for mine -she wants it to be special.  As she pins it to my shirt, we hug and kiss goodbye, promising to see each other in a few months.

Three weeks before before my scheduled return, Thoko’s body finally gives out and her painful struggle is over.

Now, whenever I wear her pin, which is quite often, I remember this woman I knew for such a short time, but who taught me about true beauty, true faith and true courage. When I talk to women in Africa who feel like they have no power over their lives, who cannot say no to an unfaithful husband even though it puts their very lives at risk, who are more afraid of their children starving if their husband leaves than of dying an excruciating death themselves one day, I can’t help wishing Thoko were still here to tell her story. But she’s not, so I tell it – and others who knew her tell it.

And there are others like Thoko who are finding their unique voice in cultures where it is seems safer to stay silent. Just a few weeks ago in Malawi, I was surprised to hear a woman tell a packed room about her personal journey with HIV. She was radiant, at peace – and speaking with no trace of fear or shame.

Just like Thoko.

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PS – If you’re interested in an authentic story of a woman living with HIV in an African village, I highly recommend the South African film entitled Yesterday.

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giving thanks

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I’m back from Africa in time for the Thanksgiving holiday – always a harder time of year to cope with “re-entry”.  I still remember melting down in the cereal aisle of a grocery store on my November return from Madagascar a decade ago.

It’s Thanksgiving eve and I’m hunting down pumpkin pie ingredients under screaming fluorescent lights when – without warning – my two worldviews collide in a very public-and messy-manner. The bright faces on the cereal boxes suddenly morph into the faces of dying children I have just left and I begin to sob incoherently about injustice and Lucky Charms. My husband has to carry me from the store.

Malaria may have had something to do with that particlar episode – but even after all these years, I still find it difficult to traverse back and forth between such starkly different worlds. It has, however, taught me to be grateful for even the smallest things – and to find meaning in each day.

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For instance, I’m so grateful for clean water flowing from a tap inside my house. I don’t have to haul water on my head, back and forth from a dirty river or a deep well in a neighboring village – or suck on dirty tree roots for my moisture. I’m grateful that I don’t have to chop firewood each time I want to cook even the smallest meal. I’m grateful that I have meals – even a simple bowl of soup and something as insignificant as a dash of salt.

I’m grateful for a warm bed and a house that keeps snakes out and won’t fall down when the rains come.The children have told me how frightening it is to find huge snakes curled up next to them in the middle of the night. Pythons, no less. (A little mouse would be welcome in their houses. Well, actually it would be breakfast.)  I’m grateful for soap, a hot shower and a clean towel, for books, music, art, beauty and a 1969 VW that still runs.

I know the US economy has taken a hit. We’ve had difficult times ourselves and are one of those families without health insurance – but I’m so grateful that we make more than a dollar a day, like 65% of all Malawians. (And no, you can’t feed and clothe a family on that – even in the Malawian economy.) I’m grateful that I’ve never had to send my children to bed hungry or choose which ones would go to school and which would go to work in a sweat shop.

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I’m grateful that we’ve never been driven into refugee camps through war and violence – like so many African families. As I think of the increasing  violence in Darfur – or in Congo – I’m grateful for the peace in our nation and for the military men and women and their families who give up their lives to keep it that way. When I think of the corrupt and brutal dictators who stand with their boots on the necks of the poor, chopping off the limbs of innocent children, I thank God for democracy – that works better here than anywhere else in the world.

Our parents are all battling illness, and that has been painful to watch – yet I am so grateful for the skilled and compassionate professionals whose care beats back the cancer. And I’m grateful to God who allows us to enjoy our loved ones for yet another day. I’ve just left a country where people are stacked two to a bed – and under the beds – on teeming hospital wards. Where life-saving surgeries are canceled because the national blood bank is dry, where people die of liver cancer with no more than tylenol to ease the pain. Yes, I’m grateful. I’m grateful for a husband who treats me with loving respect, for the opportunities my children have had, for the health and well-being of my beautiful granddaughter.

But I’m also grateful for the songs of the African widows who never give up, for the woman with AIDS who radiates joy as she talks about the goodness of God, the skeletal orphan child who clings to me, laughing, singing, hugging, still hoping, still believing in life and the love of God. These are my teachers.

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And there is one teacher in particular that I think of every Thanksgiving – let me take you back a few years…

I’m in Madagascar.  Since arriving I have preached nine times in 3 days, trudged up and down mountainsides, stood helplessly, surrounded by starving street children and heard more horror stories than I could possibly digest. I’m tired, sick with fever, rapidly sliding into a bad attitude and I’m getting ready to preach again – on love, no less. I’m praying for strength, shivering as the cold concrete floor chills my very bones, when the pastor begins to lead us in the simple worship song:

Give thanks with a grateful heart
Give thanks to the Holy One
Give thanks for He has given Jesus Christ, His son
And now let weak say “I am strong”
Let the poor say “I am rich”
Because of what the Lord has done for us

And out of the corner of my eye, I see her – a woman who looks to be in her 60s or 70s but is probably younger than me. She’s wearing a head wrap, a ragged shirt and simple cloth tied around her waist; she is barefoot on the cold concrete floor.  As she sings wholeheartedly, head thrown back and arms extended, the tears roll down her wrinkled face, soaking her shirt. I learned in that moment how to give thanks with a grateful heart – and have never forgotten. That doesn’t mean I always remember to be grateful – but when I take time to reflect, God takes me back to this humble teacher who still instructs my heart each time I think of her.

I’ll be thinking of her on Monday morning when I have a dentist appointment. I’m even grateful for this – which is nothing short of miraculous. I’m grateful for my dear friend who gives of himself and his talents to care for me and my family in this way. I’m grateful for his skilled, compassionate staff who coax me into the office and into the chair. I’m grateful for sterile instruments, novocaine and antibiotics. An oh yes – let’s not forget the gift of nitrous oxide. (PS – Just meet me in the parking lot with the tank on high and then hit me on the head with something heavy. I’ll be grateful to you.)

But enough from me. What are you grateful for?

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pure religion

The rains came yesterday – pounding with a vengeance on the tin roof of my room. Not expected for two more weeks, their early arrival is reason for rejoicing. It breaks the searing heat, and brings the possibilities of a good growing season for the maize crops. Of course, with the rains come more mosquitoes – which in the US are merely annoying, but here can be deadly. I have a net in my room, but the children in the townships and the villages have no protection. They also have no protection from things like the massive spider I killed in my room last night. I’ve never seen anything like it here – it was bigger than my fist, not counting its large hairy legs. I tried to take a photo of it but needed a wide angle lens.  I’m not kidding. This was one big, ugly, nasty bug. I usually capture insects and release them outside, but this one….well, it was him or me. But enough about that.

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Today was another  memorable day in Kalayieka Township with the Chifundo Kids – and their guardians joined us. The women entered the small room quietly, humbly, taking their seats on the mats, leaning against the mud brick walls. Moses has visited all of them in their homes and knows the names of their children – so they obviously trust and respect him.  I tell them who I am, why I’ve come and why we’ve started this program – and then settle in to listen.

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Most of them are widows. They talk about how difficult it is to care for their children and orphans – about the need for food and clothing for the children. One woman says that as a  widow she feels very much like an outsider in the wider community and expresses gratitude for the help with her orphans. One woman bravely states that her husband has HIV, that they are struggling to survive, but are strong spiritually. That much is obvious in her countenance. (Interestingly, the young orphan she cares for is named Hana – my daughter’s name.) Two of the women are muslims with orphans named Ishmael and Musa – and we are so glad they’re here.

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The Chifundo children sit quietly in the center of the room coloring in their new books as their guardians and mothers talk. We ask if any of the children have sleeping mats – and the answer is no. One woman says the children have no blankets. I ask about mosquito nets – none. How many times do your children suffer from malaria each year? They can’t even count….many many, they say.

I notice a bad burn on Luka’s back and an injury on Joyce’s head. I ask the women what kind of injuries and diseases their children are prone to and they all have the same answer – fire and malaria. I tell them we have bought basic medicines for the children that will help them keep their children healthy. We distribute basic supplies such as  bags of salt and sugar, soap and body creme – which they need when they bathe the kids – and they clap their hands with delight.

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Then I tell them about the special gift I’ve brought for each one of them.- handcrafted silver necklaces made by artist Sue Bevis, from Cleveland, Ohio. It is a hammered silver pendant of our Ancient Path logo – three Celtic spirals, touching one another. We talk about walking through life with a heavenly father that will never leave them, never abuse them, never abandon them – a concept they find so hard to grasp considering their experiences with earthly fathers. We also talk about walking with Jesus and friend as well as Savior, and the Spirit that empowers them to live each day. They listen intently and receive their necklaces with two hands and expressions of deep gratitude.

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Moses tells a bible story using the flannel graph materials and the women are as entranced as the children. We pass out the toy cars, blocks and books. It moves me to tears to watch grown women working with the pre-school materials meant to teach counting and shapes to toddlers. They all share the same story: they once had dreams of being nurses and teachers – but couldn’t finish school.  They married young, were widowed, and started taking in the orphans of their dying relatives. But like all other African women, when they start singing and dancing they forget their troubles – their faces are completely transformed. And the children jump up to join them.

Heaping platefuls of steaming nsima, meat, greens and potatoes are passed out, first to the women in the house and then the children, who have moved out into the yard. We don’t have enough mats, so a neighbor loans us her mat. It’s tattered and torn, but given freely.

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Just as the women and children finish their meal, the rains come – thundering so loudly on the tin roof that it is impossible to hear each other. The next group of children arrive for their nsima meal under dark heavy skies, making it inside just as the downpour begins. They laugh at the rains and cover their ears against the noise. The food is distributed and it all begins again. It’s incredible to me that Agnes – a widow with two children in the program – has cooked all of this food over an open fire.

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I sit on the mat to share nsima with the children and with Blessings, brother of Moses and also an excellent part of the Chifundo team.  I choke back tears of gratitude as I look into the joyous faces of the children around me.

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I simply cannot think of any better way to spend my one life.

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Religion that is pure and undefiled before God the Father is this: to care for orphans and widows in their distress….

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Chifundo kids & dolls

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Today we meet with the core group of children in the Chifundo program. 17 children between the ages of 3 and 10 – each one precious, each one vulnerable. Most are orphans, the rest are at serious risk.

I cause a stir leaving my room with arms full of handcrafted African dolls – so lovingly made by Sue Berglund from Crosslake, Minnesota. A desk employee asks if I will give her one, but when I tell her they are for orphans  and there just enough for them, she nods politely with a look that says – ” it never hurts to ask. Who knows?”

When we arrive the children are seated on the mats, waiting quietly, expectantly. There eyes grow huge when we carry in the large bags of dolls. Moses and Blessings bring in the huge flannel graph board, leaning it against the back wall and we’re ready to start.

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We start with name tags. The kids are delighted to have the colorful tags adorned with stickers and their names hanging on their neck. There are two children added to the program that I didn’t expect – Ishmael and Beadi. they’re crestfallen when there name isn’t called, but extra supplies allow for two more on the spot – sporting a few extra stickers.

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Next come the dolls. The children can hardly believe their ears – they get to keep these? I tell them about how they were made  – and at night they can hug them tight as they sleep. We talk about the beads in the hair – they recognize the colors from the wordless book story of yesterday, as well as the bracelets they made. We show them the beautiful Chichewa booklet tucked in a pocket of each doll and then the children come up one at a time, choosing the colorful doll that most catches their eye. They immediately clutch the soft dolls, fingering their crocheted mouths and big, shiny button eyes.

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The children then see their first ever flannel graph story. it’s pure improvisation on my part – telling the story of the night the angels appear to shepherds to announce the birth of the Christ child. They’re completely entranced with the large colorful figures – and each of them come up to add another tree, another sheep, another angel in the sky.  Actually we have sheep in trees, shepherds sitting on sheep, angels sitting on trees – but it makes no difference. When I ask them if they think the shepherds were important men, they answer an emphatic “yes”!  Angels would only announce the birth of the Savior to important men, right? They loved hearing that the shepherds were the lowliest of the lowly, despised, outcast, of no reputation, poor men. And this world-changing announcement wasn’t given to the powerful or the rich. This was good news that even the youngest could understand.

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We pass out the coloring books crafted by an artist from Minnesota – each child gets their own and immediately, quietly, begin to color – as we take one child at a time for a photo. Only one young boy, Prezi, can’t be photographed like the others. He has been asleep since he arrived. Moses tells me he does this every day  – I check his head for fever, but he’s cool. But we’re not sure why he sleeps so much.

We also pass out the cards make by the children of Rockside Church in Independence, Ohio. Each child is delighted to hear their name called and receive their very own card from a child in the USA.

When it’s time for food, the children dig in, hungrily – no one makes a sound. Today that have fruit juice – a big treat that they obviously enjoy. It’s been a full, enjoyable day.

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The most meaningful moment for me today is the time of prayer we have for the children. We take time to pray for each child, hugging them, holding their small heads in our hands. Young Luka kneels with arms outstretched – several of the children do, as Moses and I pray and bless each young life.

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We are believing for so much for these children. It’s not just a matter of feeding them, of making them feel valuable. It’s about helping  them grow up to be godly men and women who will be leaders in the church of the future – to be leaders in the nation. Many scoff at such a notion here in Africa. How can a lowly orphan grow to be anything – or even to read and write? But the ways of God are higher than ours – and the ones He chooses are not those the world would choose. God chooses the humble ones, the thrown-away ones, the ones that are nothing to shame  the powerful, to confound the supposedly wise. When I look at these children, I see not what they are, but who God created them to be. God help us help them to reach that potential.

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As we drive out of the township, I watch a young boy in badly torn shorts holding a broken, filthy, plastic peanut butter jar. I recognize it as one that we used yesterday to feed the children. The hungry boy has already licked it clean, but is still digging for one more small bite. The site is disturbing and when I return to my room, I can’t get him out of my mind.

I’m hungry. I can walk out to the restaurant and eat, drink a cold coke – which is the only thing that refreshes in this stifling November heat. But I choose to sit tonight with that little boy in my heart, to be hungry and thirsty, asking God for  His thoughts, His heart, His ways, – to provide for more children.

There are too many, of course – it’s overwhelming.

So we continue to take it one beautiful face at a time, one little soul at a time.

blessings

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into africa

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I’ve just spent a day and night flying – starting on United and then onto Ethiopian Air. I usually fly South African Air, but since that always requires a night layover in Jo-burg – & this is a short trip, I need the most direct route into Malawi. Well, not exactly direct – Cleveland, to Washington D.C. to Rome to Addis Ababa to Congo to Malawi.

I like this airline – though I do hope the engine is in better shape than the seats. The plane is a bit worn, the videos unwatchable with squawking sound and crackling picture. Considering the videos offered, that’s fine with me. But the crew is efficient and they aim to please. When I mention that I’m a vegetarian, they won’t hear of me picking around the meat at dinner. I didn’t order a vegetarian meal yet they insist on providing me with a steaming plate of pasta, steamed vegetables and fresh fruit.  Yes, I like Ethiopian Air. I like the music of their language and the strange, otherworldly look of their script that makes something as mundane as an exit sign look like exotic text from an ancient book.

Time passes and dawn appears quickly – a chunky red stripe on the horizon. Now I can see the landscape and find that the mammoth Nile River is beneath me. Soon a  jagged mountain range comes into view and the landscape is dotted with glistening silver  – the glint of the sun on metal roofing . As we draw nearer to Addis Ababa the ground takes on the appearance of a patchwork quilt – not unlike Ireland in ways – except the  color palette is different. While Ireland is 42 shades of green,Ethiopia has many of the same rich colors I’ve seen flying over the Kalahari desert  – deep magenta and burgundy, grass green, rich gold and burnt orange. I’m listening to traditional Ethiopian music – as strange to the ear as their written language is to the eye.

Approaching the city and closer to the ground I get a good look at the housing – ramshackle shanties, mud houses, tenement buildings stand in stark contrast to the beautiful buildings in the center of town. I listen to traditional Ethiopian instrument music as I stare out the window and think I’d like to spend some time here. And I might get to if they don’t hold my plane.

I knew in Rome that we were running late. We’re now landing at 9:35 – over an hour past due – and my connection into Malawi leaves at 9:45. Float, I tell myself. There’s nothing to be done.

I float as everyone scrambles for their bags. I float when I’m stuck in the aisle and can’t move – with the woman behind me whacking me in the back with her bag. I float when I miss the first bus and stand on the tarmac wondering where to go next. When I enter the terminal, I find a man yelling “Transit! Transit!” – and this man puts me on a bus and drives me right to my plane, which is waiting for me. I know my luggage won’t make it, but I will at least see Malawi today.

Now we sit on the tarmac at Lubumbashi, Congo – another place I hope to spend time some day. The airport terminal, painted in bright yellow and periwinkle blue, is small and rundown. The outstanding feature is a massive photo of Congo’s big man, Joseph Kabila. He’s wearing a black shirt, open at the neck, and his eyes seem to dart to the left – he doesn’t look at the camera.

Officials carry two blue rickety plastic tables onto the runway and begin to search the bags and persons of the boarding passengers. It takes forever, but I don’t care since I have no more connections.

I make it to Lilongwe with no further trouble. I fight for a place at the luggage carousel, knowing all the same that my luggage will not be there. I watch the same bags go round and round – the most interesting is two plastic laundry baskets tape together, one on top fo the other. It is protecting an arrangement of plastic flowers. Before the carousel even stops, I change some money, file my missing bag report and head out into the terminal.

Moses and his family are there waiting for me. His young sister, Margaret, greets me with a beautiful bouquet of silk flowers wrapped in sparkly paper. This is a first – and I’m delighted.

On the way to my hotel we pass the construction site of Madonna’s academy. She was just in town last week for the ground breaking ceremony – and there is already big equipment parked on the site. It’s a huge project – a school for 500 girls. We pass many girls walking barefoot on the side of the road – hauling buckets and bundles on their small heads. I hope that school – or any school – can make a difference in the lives of these girls of Malawi.

I check into my hotel, too tired to do much else today – except beg around for a wall adapter to keep my mac from dying until my luggage arrives. No luck yet.

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a grisly trade

linda

The  jarring headline on the ABC news web page today reads: Africans with Albinism Hunted: Limbs Sold on Tanzania’s Black Market. They’re running the full story tonight on the popular news magazine show, 20/20.

I watch a brief interview clip of the BBC reporter who first went undercover to expose this horror. There is covert video and audio of her conversation with a local witchdoctor who cavalierly explains that he can provide charms made from albino parts. Since I was in Africa when the story first broke, I’ve heard it all before – but it’s still unbelievable to me.

The woman, who now lives in hiding, chokes back tears as she tells the story of a 7 month old albino infant snatched from a mother’s arms, and hacked to death. The barbarians, as she calls them, then run off into the bush carrying the baby’s legs which will then be sold for anywhere from $500 to $2000USD each – a small fortune in a country where the per capita income is less than $450USD. Hands, arms, legs, blood and genitals are then sold to witchdoctors and processed into potions. The witchdoctors maintain that these potions will bring wealth and good luck to those who purchase them. And there is a market – a growing market – for these special witchcraft charms.

Officials blame poverty, ignorance, and superstition for the grisly trade. For years, it has been a common belief that albinos, who are seen as ghosts and bad omens, don’t die – they just disappear. (Is it easier to kill a ghost, than a human being?)  Of course, they are no such thing. They are human beings who, in Africa, live difficult lives.

But try explaining to an illiterate villager who has been raised on traditional beliefs and stories that albinism is “a hereditary genetic condition caused by two recessive genes resulting in little or no pigment production in the skin, hair, or eyes”.  Just try.

Their belief systems run deep and their stories are powerful and frightening – especially in the pitch dark of a moonless night, especially when you are a vulnerable child. I have heard the stories of people who turn into hyenas and witches who fly at night on baskets and brooms, landing on your front lawn when they run out of juju – their supernatural power. The last time I was in Malawi, three people were given substantial prison sentences on the testimony of a 13 year old girl who swore under oath that her aunt and uncle were teaching her witchcraft and flying her around at night on a cooking spoon.

At this season of each year, our children in the west hear the same stories. We dress them in masks and costumes and let them watch scary movies and “cute” shows about witchcraft. We decorate classrooms with cardboard cutouts of witches riding on brooms and ghosts and skeletons. We decorate our lawns to look like graveyards – for fun.

In Africa, evil acts are committed in real graveyards. If a family wants to protect a deceased relative from mutilation, they will fill the grave with cement.  It is believed that the Nyau turn into animals in the graveyards and witches go there at night to “eat meat” from the bodies of the dead. Every child I have met in Africa lives in terror of witches – they sleep fitfully, in torment. They are too afraid to leave the hut to use the toilet at night.

On this side of the world we treat it all as some harmless fiction. Just another season, another set of decorations, another holiday.

But there is a whole other world out there – stranger than fiction.
Watch 20/20 tonight at 10 and catch a glimpse of it.

As for me, I’m getting out of town for Halloween this year.
On October 30th, I’m going to Africa.

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